Help with mechanical mods

[joelemite]

Hello everyone, I've been vaping for only 12 days now but I'm already obsessed with it and have been spending far too much looking at all the possibilities that are open to me with it all.

At the moment I'm using a Vision Spinner II with a KangerTech Aerotank and a Vision Spinner with a Protank 2 as a backup but I've been looking into mechanical mods and was wondering if you could help me with the differences. 

So to start with it looks like it's basically a metal tube with changeable batteries (a basic straight voltage device/torch ) and from what I can make out the battery life depends on what sort of battery you use, so an 18350 won't last as long as an 18650 even though they are both 3.7v because the 18650 would have a higher mAH?
There are no solder joints, display, buttons and counters on it so there's less chance of failure and when the battery does finally stop charging its cheaper to replace that rather than a whole encased unit.
The Spinners maintain the voltage they are set to, whereas the voltage in a mechanical mod depletes as the battery loses charge?
Protected or unprotected batteries? Does it depend on how they're being used?
I'm also guessing they last longer as well.

I don't even want to think about sub ohm malarky yet so that'll be for another time 

[osdset]

I accidentally strayed into the 'sub ohm' universe this morning after making a new coil whilst half asleep. The subsequent throat searing result brought me spluttering into consciousness PDQ.

[hijack]

That's basically it joelemite its a tube with a battery in it and a mechanical switch that completes the circuit.
It can be stripped down completely and put back together again.
Its always best to use IMR/Hybrid batteries IMO, and these are unprotected. Take a look at battery buying guide for a full explanation of battery types.
I also did a guide for using mechs Mech guide Which emphasised safety, and gives links to various bits and pieces that are useful/important to have when using a mech.

[joelemite]

I didn't realise it would be quite that involved, looks like I'm going to have to try and find all my old ohms law college work and get my work brain on the go

[Greg]

At only 12 days in my advice would be hold off on mech mods.
Maybe go for something like a Vw MVP or VTR or a vw tube mod if you like the idea of replaceable batteries.

Your choice of course but I'd advise a little research on the forum first before jumping in on a mech.
hijack has given you some good pointers above

[Cousin Itt]

My advice is if you get a mech mod don`t just go for the cheapest option . Ive bought 2 sub £10 ones from china and both were crap . Spend a little bit more and get something decent. £20-30 can get you a well made one . Cheapy`s from china it can be a lucky dip.

[hijack]

I would learn what you can about it, we all started from here, but jumping in the deep end without finding out first is a recipe for trouble.
So try and pick up all you can from people first, and dont buy until your sure in your own mind, you know what your doing.

[Deleted]

Jul 31, 2014 7:42:26 GMT joelemite said:

The Spinners maintain the voltage they are set to, whereas the voltage in a mechanical mod depletes as the battery loses charge?
Protected or unprotected batteries? Does it depend on how they're being used?

You wont have much of a problem with the voltage loss if you use a kick, if i had to rely on one single device that is what i would choose, if the kick fails to operate any longer you can just take it out and switch back to using just the battery.. if a VV/VW quits on you you are stuck.

[Greg]

If I knew when I started what I know now I'd have just bought a Provari or two

But I guess everyone has to find their own way and 12 days in is maybe a little early to commit to such a cost.

[leo]

Mech mods are awesome. I haven't touched a VV/VW device in weeks.
Good batteries are essential (as is a decent charger to charge them on)... so get a pair of Sony VTC5's (about £15 on ebay, and widely considered the best/safest batteries for mechs) If you get into Mechs, and low ohms, you will likely want the sony's sooner or later, better get them now and save money in the long run.
You don't want to run the batteries too low as this will damage them, so if you have a multimeter, or something that can check their voltage (like a Vamo), that's handy, but I don't think you could run down a VTC5 in a day (I certainly can't), so I don't bother checking it any more and just charge at the end of the day (when I have checked they haven't been below 3.7v after a day's vaping (~4ml of juice)... so fine for me, but if you are a very heavy vaper it would be worth checking you aren't running your batts much below 3.5v.

The power that is delivered to the coil is dependant on the resistance of that coil (and the charge of the battery), no other variables in a mech. So you should get comfortable building you own coils (plenty of vids on youtube), you should have something that can check the resistance of those coils (Vamo or Multimeter again), and as you pointed out, you should have some knowledge of Ohms Law (plenty of good smartphone apps, or website calculators there too).

The lower the ohms the more strain you are putting on the battery, and the more watts it will be delivering to you. Lower ohms also give a warmer vape. I'm currently vaping at 0.4ohms, so roughly 44watts of power (and it's amazing), which is pulling 10.5 amps from my battery. The sony's are safe to 30 amps, so no worries there and I can go lower - but 0.4 is definitely warm enough for me, don't think I will be going much lower any time soon... but then again, when I started vaping I didn't think I would get into mechs/low ohms at all. So if you are tempted already, it's safe to assume that you will get there soon enough. It's perfectly safe as long as you have good kit, and learn as much as you can about it before you start.

M-Vapes have an awesome brass Stingray for under £30 (a lot of people like the 69 clone for the side firing button, but the advice above to spend a bit and get a decent clone vs a really cheap one, is very good advice - bargain basement mechs are not worth the hassle in my book)... and I'd highly recommend a dripping atomiser on a mech (I use an Igo M clone from LT Ecigs for about £11).. then all you need is some wire (Kanthal at 0.3mm is good to start with - I'm using 0.5 but that's really for sub-ohming esp on dual coil builds)
Of course you can use a tank atomiser on a mech (like a Fogger or a Kayfun), but for me, as with vv/vw devices, once I started dripping I really can't see a reason to go back to a tank. Carrying a 10ml bottle of juice around is no hardship, and a load up of the wicks vapes for as long as I want to on a 'fag-break' at work. And at home it's no issue at all.

Q posted a vapers timeline somewhere, about how we normally start with an ego/ce4, move on to better vv/vw devices with something like a Protank, then move on etc, etc... it's worth searching it out..... but if you go straight to mech's you are skipping a few steps... nothing wrong with that I'd say (I'd have saved a lot of money if I hadn't dabbled in the vv/vw/protank world)... AS LONG AS YOU MAKE SURE YOU KNOW YOUR STUFF AND ARE SAFE!

Whatever it takes to keep you off the stinkies, right?

You are in the right place for all the help and advice you'll need, so welcome to the forum.
Cheers

[leo]

Jul 31, 2014 15:59:04 GMT Greg said:

If I knew when I started what I know now I'd have just bought a Provari or two

But I guess everyone has to find their own way and 12 days in is maybe a little early to commit to such a cost.

Very interesting post... I'd love to know what everyone's answer to that would be.
For me it'd be the Stingray/Igo-M comby... and for a long time I thought I'd never find anything I liked more than my old vamo/fogger combo... I wonder what it'll be next month?
Maybe have to try a Provari!!!!!!

[scaffman69]

Maybe get yourself a kanger aero mega or aspire nautilus atty running a 1.5ohm coils and a caravela clone and as said imr batteries, they look mint and fit like a glove, you can get it all at fasttech along with a nightcore charger cheap www.fasttech.com/category/1411/electronic-cigarettes and batteries here www.ebay.co.uk/sch/ecoluxshop/m.html?item=360903717970&hash=item540789b452&pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_Batteries_SM&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562.

[Greg]

Jul 31, 2014 16:08:10 GMT leo said:

Jul 31, 2014 15:59:04 GMT Greg said:

If I knew when I started what I know now I'd have just bought a Provari or two

But I guess everyone has to find their own way and 12 days in is maybe a little early to commit to such a cost.

Very interesting post... I'd love to know what everyone's answer to that would be.
For me it'd be the Stingray/Igo-M comby... and for a long time I thought I'd never find anything I liked more than my old vamo/fogger combo... I wonder what it'll be next month?
Maybe have to try a Provari!!!!!!

I guess everyone has to make their own journey and with the help of the good folk on here you will arrive where you want to be.
ive tried pretty much every kind of device on my relatively short journey and for me a provari and a KFL perform so consistently. I still buy other stuff to try if it takes my eye, the gizmo and nautilus with bvc being the most recent.
 But what do I have in my hand right now and 90% of the time, provari and KFL 

[Greg]

Come on guys let's give a bit of thoughts to post content. We are in absolute beginners section here so I'm thinking it's a little inappropriate to be talking drippers and sub ohms. Sure they have their place but not in beginners

And let's not start a bun fight I'm not singling any one out just asking you think about the section your posting in please.

[Deleted]

Well my advice would be... decent mech that will take all size 18xxxx batteries, IMR's, a kick for times of need ... stick to around 1.5 to 2.0 ohms and you should be good to go.. 1.8 ohm ish would be my recommendation and personal preference,, its all safe with nothing much to worry about,.... stay away from sub ohm tho.