Evolve DNA 40 clone temp control - first look :)

[VapingBad]

Feb 17, 2015 22:43:20 GMT Croak said:

Profiles/mode will still be useful for Kanthal builds, and lets face it, Kanthal builds will still be the majority of builds used on this device, just like they are on DNA40 devices, by and large.

But the mode feature of the SX350 is one I really like, to be quite honest, works a treat on heavier wire builds, and is easily defeatable if you don't want it.

Good point about kanthal builds, but once you get used to the pre-heat on a DNA40 there is no going back.  Temp sensing gives you a fast start and never over boos not matter how much you chain vape and my ADV is dual 3 mm stainless steel rope wicks that can either sap or hold a lot of heat.  I also notice a massive difference with cotton builds to I just built an Orchid with 28 AWG at 1.1 ohm on the Cloupor mini I have to look at the screen to see if it working and the first second or second and a half if cold on a DNA30 or iStick is not satisfying.

[Croak]

Unfortunately, DNA40 pre-heat only works with Ni200 builds. In regular Kanthal mode, it's just the same as a DNA30. The SX350 has an advantage there, and for normal wire builds, it's overall just a better board solution than the DNA40 IMHO, with accuracy on par with a DNA board, a wider power range, more options, a better display (in the full size board), and the firmware can be updated by the end-user, no small thing. Its biggest failing is a large board footprint, and they partially addressed that with the SX 350 Mini board, at the cost of a smaller display.

I expect the SX350J will maintain that superiority whilst adding temperature control, and from what I've seen, the end-user is still going to be picking a temperature, not some other unit of measure. How the board itself calculates temperature may differ from Evolv's simple resistance delta method, as it seems it's not only going to be reading resistance changes but actual power input as well. Knowing both how much power it's fed the coil over a period of time combined with monitoring the resistance change, it has the potential to more accurately determine temperature, and almost as important, give better/smoother control to the process. Note I said potential, how the finished product actually works is just conjecture at this point.

[-V-]

I do feel YiHi the makers of the SX chipsets will maybe get ahead of Evolv soon, I own the YiHi SX Mini and the chip is excellent and really looking forward to trying the new one with temp control when it comes out...

[VapingBad]

I don't think the YiHis are superior, they do win on watts and have user up-datable firmware (not sure that is used by many), but for mod making they are more expensive, bigger and less flexible with the fixed screen (which requires changing the whole lot when they fail). I really wanted to make an SX mod when they first came out, but would have had to make quite a bit a bigger mod than with a DNA30 and that was a price I wasn't prepared to pay for more watts. As for the display that is subjective I prefer a minimal display and feel the same about extra options. But I'm glad they are there to give Evolve some competition and you could argue one was better than the other but the differences are far more to do with personal preference than quality of regulation. The one thing I don't know is what YiHi's after-sales support like, I have seen some reports of faulty boards, but no mention of returning the board for replacement just "you will have to get a new board", but I just don't know it may be the delay of sending to China that puts people off.

The world is a richer place with a few more choices: want high watts go for a YiHi otherwise the lower price and flexibility of the Evolv would be my choice every time YMMV.

[macmagoo]

Feb 18, 2015 9:46:35 GMT -V- said:

I do feel YiHi the makers of the SX chipsets will maybe get ahead of Evolv soon, I own the YiHi SX Mini and the chip is excellent and really looking forward to trying the new one with temp control when it comes out...

I agree. I have only had my SX Mini for a week and already I am thinking this is much better than my VS DNA40 because I like the memory bank settings and the soft, standard and Powerful settings which give you options on what you have set up. I like you will be investing in another once it has the 350J chipset in it.

[robby]

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaanyway, in conclusion, the clone dna40 vaporflask from Kangxin works extremely well and still performs up to and probably beyond expectations, does exactly what it says on the tin. Very happy with it and would recommend it to anyone looking for a TC/TP high battery capacity mod at a fantastic price, available from Focalecig at a great price

[macmagoo]

Feb 18, 2015 10:57:51 GMT robby said:

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaanyway, in conclusion, the clone dna40 vaporflask from Kangxin works extremely well and still performs up to and probably beyond expectations, does exactly what it says on the tin. Very happy with it and would recommend it to anyone looking for a TC/TP high battery capacity mod at a fantastic price, available from Focalecig at a great price

You are right Robby, didn't mean to hijack your thread. The one I got worked just fine but it was a little big for my small hands and quite smooth which I thought would definitely cause me to drop it sooner or later. I have now found a MOD that without a silicon skin is small and has a texture that is very grippy. Very happy camper.

[letsavit]

Feb 18, 2015 10:57:51 GMT robby said:

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaanyway, in conclusion, the clone dna40 vaporflask from Kangxin works extremely well and still performs up to and probably beyond expectations, does exactly what it says on the tin. Very happy with it and would recommend it to anyone looking for a TC/TP high battery capacity mod at a fantastic price, available from Focalecig at a great price

vaping on my one as I type, even without the temp control its a nice device for the money. 

[letsavit]

Feb 18, 2015 7:40:26 GMT Croak said:

Unfortunately, DNA40 pre-heat only works with Ni200 builds. In regular Kanthal mode, it's just the same as a DNA30. The SX350 has an advantage there, and for normal wire builds, it's overall just a better board solution than the DNA40 IMHO, with accuracy on par with a DNA board, a wider power range, more options, a better display (in the full size board), and the firmware can be updated by the end-user, no small thing. Its biggest failing is a large board footprint, and they partially addressed that with the SX 350 Mini board, at the cost of a smaller display.

I expect the SX350J will maintain that superiority whilst adding temperature control, and from what I've seen, the end-user is still going to be picking a temperature, not some other unit of measure. How the board itself calculates temperature may differ from Evolv's simple resistance delta method, as it seems it's not only going to be reading resistance changes but actual power input as well. Knowing both how much power it's fed the coil over a period of time combined with monitoring the resistance change, it has the potential to more accurately determine temperature, and almost as important, give better/smoother control to the process. Note I said potential, how the finished product actually works is just conjecture at this point.

Never really heard of or experienced this board, well kind off heard off it but not with the mention of temperature so never took much notice. I like the word you have highlighted, would like to hear the word "forgiving" too, something I think the DNA is not. I agree it's the end user picking a temperature, how it does I really don't care, I don't vape watts. Today I also agree with Mr   VapingBad 's comment .. ;)more choice is only a good thing for us, the users.

Need to google this board later when I have more time.......

[stax]

Did anyone notice a kind of a memory lost on the clone chip? Or glitch?

Suddenly today my Rose v2 set on .11 ohm started to produce a much less vaper. Watching the screen shows 19w 450F as it should be, but when pushing the button the watts don't go over 9.5w and its far from reaching TP mode. I changed the tank with .22ohm Aerotank mega - same thing happened. Only Robby's "hard reset" done the job.

Also after "hard reset" the chip needs 10-15sec to realize that in needs to go in temperature mode. This can burn any nickel wire in second if it is set to 30-40w.

The clone chip is OK but its far from the DNA40.

[Croak]

Feb 18, 2015 18:53:19 GMT stax said:

Did anyone notice a kind of a memory lost on the clone chip? Or glitch?

Suddenly today my Rose v2 set on .11 ohm started to produce a much less vaper. Watching the screen shows 19w 450F as it should be, but when pushing the button the watts don't go over 9.5w and its far from reaching TP mode. I changed the tank with .22ohm Aerotank mega - same thing happened. Only Robby's "hard reset" done the job.

Also after "hard reset" the chip needs 10-15sec to realize that in needs to go in temperature mode. This can burn any nickel wire in second if it is set to 30-40w.

The clone chip is OK but its far from the DNA40.

Dunno, sounds about as buggy as the DNA40 to me.  I think it's cloned too well.

[Deleted]

Feb 18, 2015 18:53:19 GMT stax said:

Did anyone notice a kind of a memory lost on the clone chip? Or glitch?

Suddenly today my Rose v2 set on .11 ohm started to produce a much less vaper. Watching the screen shows 19w 450F as it should be, but when pushing the button the watts don't go over 9.5w and its far from reaching TP mode. I changed the tank with .22ohm Aerotank mega - same thing happened. Only Robby's "hard reset" done the job.

Also after "hard reset" the chip needs 10-15sec to realize that in needs to go in temperature mode. This can burn any nickel wire in second if it is set to 30-40w.

The clone chip is OK but its far from the DNA40.

Not on the clone I havent, but on the genuine Vapour Sharh Rdna40 has done exactly that on two occasions, and this was the supposedly updated Shark

[robby]

Feb 18, 2015 18:53:19 GMT stax said:

Did anyone notice a kind of a memory lost on the clone chip? Or glitch?

Suddenly today my Rose v2 set on .11 ohm started to produce a much less vaper. Watching the screen shows 19w 450F as it should be, but when pushing the button the watts don't go over 9.5w and its far from reaching TP mode. I changed the tank with .22ohm Aerotank mega - same thing happened. Only Robby's "hard reset" done the job.

Also after "hard reset" the chip needs 10-15sec to realize that in needs to go in temperature mode. This can burn any nickel wire in second if it is set to 30-40w.

The clone chip is OK but its far from the DNA40.

Never had that problem on mine and to be honest, from what I know now about both evolve and kangxin, there is little between them. It works consistently well, what more should I expect from it? 

[imho]

Feb 18, 2015 18:53:19 GMT stax said:

Did anyone notice a kind of a memory lost on the clone chip? Or glitch?

Suddenly today my Rose v2 set on .11 ohm started to produce a much less vaper. Watching the screen shows 19w 450F as it should be, but when pushing the button the watts don't go over 9.5w and its far from reaching TP mode. I changed the tank with .22ohm Aerotank mega - same thing happened. Only Robby's "hard reset" done the job.

Also after "hard reset" the chip needs 10-15sec to realize that in needs to go in temperature mode. This can burn any nickel wire in second if it is set to 30-40w.

The clone chip is OK but its far from the DNA40.

My experience so far has been that all "strange" behaviour has been associated with dodgy connections, whether the 510 or screw terminals in the atty. I've found the Kangxin VF to be a solid and consistent device, if I do my job. I received a Smocare-based Hana DNA40 clone after the initial learning curve with the VF clone and I have not had an issue but I'm sure I would have had the same experience I did with the VF if it had arrived first.

[decoy]

so in conclusion all this temp control larky do is stop you trying to run your atty at to high a power for its set up
the clone works well
and this nickle stuff is v v low resistance


oh and why not use infrared temp sensing if we want to go daft built in to the mod and fired up the air hole in the atty to the coil