maccafan
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Post by maccafan on Jan 2, 2014 19:10:47 GMT
Yeah the Titanide is a real piece of art. More jewellery than mod..
If you have you heart set on that, I would just buy it instead of faffing around.
You only live once.
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maccafan
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Post by maccafan on Jan 2, 2014 19:00:47 GMT
Get a Nemesis. In 18350 + Kick it's pretty tiny for out and about. Whack the extra tube on it at home and use in 18650 mode. You can get custom wraps for it from here in pretty colours or buy some Vinyl automotive sheets and make a wrap yourself to save some squids. www.jwraps.com/category_s/2165.htmYou can buy a mixed mode one with SS and Brass which looks pretty smart and feminine too without any wraps.
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maccafan
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Post by maccafan on Dec 29, 2013 8:13:29 GMT
I prefer vaping with a regulator than without. It also prevents undervolting which gives me a tad more piece of mind on the top of the consistency.
I start off using the pot markings as an approximation of wattage I want to b output and then fine tune it to taste and leave it. So I have no idea how many watts I am vaping at but I do know that every time it fires, I get a similar experience which suits my need for vapor, flavour and throat hit..
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maccafan
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Post by maccafan on Dec 29, 2013 7:59:04 GMT
The switch throw is more a factor of how much the bottom pin has to travel to make contact with the bottom of the battery.
The entire switch mechanism should be snug against the bottom of the battery. The switch throw will be unaffected whether you use 2 or 3 x 1mm magnets. There is enough gap in the switch actuator mechanism to absorb an extra 1mm magnet and make no difference to the switch function. When assembling the switch, push the brass body down all the way and tighten the center pin as far as it will go, regardless of whether you are using the springs or magnets.
The contact pin should be tight when assembling the switch or is likely to unscrew itself causing the more serious issue of constant firing. I gently nip mine up with a pair of nose pliers to prevent this. Adjustments for differing battery lengths should be done my other means. Keep that contact pin on the switch tight.
If you have a shorter battery which is a flat top, remove the kick ring or extend the battery with a magnet if you want to keep the kick ring. For those with N35 magnets, use two magnets back to back on one side.
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maccafan
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Post by maccafan on Dec 26, 2013 19:57:51 GMT
If I were to buy, I would prefer the Russian 91% or a clone thereof over all the others including clones, counterfeits and the original due to it's air flow control feature in a compact size.
Vapewise, I doubt there is any discernible difference between any of them.
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maccafan
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Post by maccafan on Dec 26, 2013 19:45:57 GMT
I switched off the telly and actually went into work to wrap up a few things in peace when no one else was around..
It was the most banal tripe that could be dished out or maybe I am old and grumpy, more likely the latter.
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maccafan
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Post by maccafan on Dec 23, 2013 22:54:35 GMT
I know the dimensions of the AGA-T tank if that is of any use:
It's 20 mm OD X 18mm ID (1mm WT) X 22.7 to 23mm H.
I got a 100 of them made locally for a co-op in the beginning of this year.
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maccafan
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Post by maccafan on Dec 23, 2013 22:46:23 GMT
Mine works fine with 2 x N35 if I have a Pulse G lookalike on top in 18650 mode + kick and I can stand it up with no issues.
When I put a fully filled AGA-T on top it needs 2 X N35 magnets back to back on one side or it can't be stood up. I doubt even N42 magnets will take the weight if it has a AGA-T on top. More likely needs a N50.
So it's all down to individual configuration and needs. For example the battery that I am using, I cannot use the Kick ring and have to use just the 3 sections. If I use the kick ring the switch bottoms out and becomes unusable.
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maccafan
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Post by maccafan on Dec 23, 2013 22:09:25 GMT
Quad core so probably a RK3188 or MTK6589 processor both of which are very good.
Not a bad buy at all, for the price.
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maccafan
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Post by maccafan on Dec 23, 2013 21:52:18 GMT
I am badly affected. A few cars parked beneath my apartment window won't shut up when the wind gusts and can't bloody sleep!
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maccafan
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Post by maccafan on Dec 23, 2013 21:49:59 GMT
A minor misunderstanding/crossed wires about the word "performance". That's all, nothing major.
For me when people talk about performance in relation to a mech mod, it has to do with mod conductivity.
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maccafan
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Post by maccafan on Dec 23, 2013 21:47:12 GMT
I think the Pulse-G clone is a very good buy for the money if you like genesis attys.
It's innovative with it's chamber reducer and sloping base. But a few people have had issues with it's glass tank being cracked/broken in transit. Finding a replacement tank is nigh impossible expect from USA as it is an odd size or through FT warranty which is a nightmare.
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maccafan
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Post by maccafan on Dec 22, 2013 18:42:05 GMT
I never said all stainless steel is the same..I am well aware of the differences.
The magnet on the nemesis replaces the spring..It has bugger all to do with conductivity or performance.That was my point in response to the theory that they would perform better.
If anyone else happy to pay over the odds I am not going to stop them..
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maccafan
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Post by maccafan on Dec 22, 2013 15:16:33 GMT
A magnet is a magnet. I don't quite subscribe to the theory that the original magnets will perform better. The magnets only act as a spring and the current will always flow through the path of least resistance which is the threaded brass body of the switch onto the main tube. The silver coating is just a gimmick to extract £6.00 out of people for a pair of magnets worth about £1.00. N35 magnets are a bit weak for a 18650 + kick + heavy atty. One way around it is to have 2 x back to back magnets on one side and the repulsion force goes up to approx 208%. That's the configuration I am using and it is rock solid. I bought ten of those from here.
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maccafan
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Post by maccafan on Dec 22, 2013 15:08:36 GMT
Some good tips there. Thanks for sharing.
I myself prefer a dull finish with 600 grade wet but useful to know.
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